Wonders and Whirlpools: Navigating North Eleuthera

First Guest Aboard: Exploring North Eleuthera

We were super excited as we waited for our first guest to arrive at the boat: Pamela’s Aunt Paige. After getting her settled, we headed to shore to explore the town of Governor’s Harbour. We found a quiet little outdoor spot on the hillside for dinner, followed by a stop at a cute ice cream shop for a treat on our way back to the boat.

The Move to Mutton Fish Point

The next day we were on the move again, picking up Jubilee’s hook and heading toward Mutton Fish Point. We had to motor the entire way as there was not a lick of wind. Despite the lack of sailing, there is something magical about motoring through an ocean as smooth as a swimming pool. At Mutton Fish Point, we found awesome beaches with crystal-clear water and perfect snorkeling spots.

We positioned the boat here to prepare for a day of exploring the northern part of Eleuthera.

Eleuthera’s Natural Wonders

The Glass Window Bridge

Often called the “Narrowest Place on Earth,” this is Eleuthera’s most famous landmark. For decades, a natural stone arch connected the north and south of the island, but after powerful storms destroyed it, a man-made bridge now stands in its place.

The View: Stand in the middle to witness a startling contrast. To your left, the deep, turbulent navy blue of the Atlantic Ocean; to your right, the calm, turquoise stillness of the Bight of Eleuthera.

The Blow Hole

Tucked away near the northern end of the island, the Blow Hole is a hidden gem that showcases the raw power of the ocean’s energy. Because it was a calm day at low tide, there wasn’t a ton of action, but we were still able to see it “go” a few times.

The Spectacle: As Atlantic swells rush into underwater caverns, pressure builds until a massive plume of white spray shoots high into the air through a vent in the coral rock.

Cow and Bull

Continuing south down Queen’s Highway, we found these two massive, rounded boulders rising from the cliffs.

The Legend: From a distance, the two distinct rock formations resemble a cow and a bull gazing out over the Atlantic.
The Reality: Geologists believe these “boulder deposits” were tossed hundreds of feet inland by “superstorms” or ancient tsunamis thousands of years ago. Today, William confidently led the way, climbing these massive structures with his older brothers following quickly in tow.

The Queen’s Bath

Located just a short walk south of the Glass Window Bridge, these natural tide pools are carved into the rugged rock on the Atlantic side.

The Experience: During low to medium tide, the sun warms the crystalline water trapped in these basins, creating natural hot tubs.
Take Note: Wear sturdy water shoes! The “moon rock” formations are incredibly sharp. Always check the tide charts—high tide makes these pools dangerous.

Navigating the Current Cut

After visiting Mutton Fish Point, we continued toward Current Settlement. It was a stellar sailing day with winds just ahead of the beam; at times, we were flying along at 7.5 to 8 knots. But this was just the warm-up for the main event: Current Cut.

The Ultimate Natural Drift

If the Glass Window Bridge is where you watch the power of the ocean, Current Cut is where you feel it. This narrow, 100-yard gap acts like a massive funnel for the ocean’s tides.

The Approach: Timing the Slack Navigating Jubilee through this stretch isn’t about speed; it’s about timing. We kept a close eye on the tide tables, aiming for slack water. Even a slight delay can mean facing a 7-to-10-knot current that turns the surface into a boiling cauldron of whirlpools and standing waves.

As we approached, the transition was striking. We left the vibrant, neon turquoise of the Bank and watched the depth sounder plummet as the rolling navy of the Sound surged through the opening to meet us.

The Passage: Eyes on the Water Once inside the Cut, the shorelines feel incredibly close. With the engines humming and every eye on deck scanning for “boils” (which indicate submerged coral or shifting eddies), the intensity was palpable.

The Reality of “Slack” Even with our math being nearly spot-on, the Cut had its own plans. As Jubilee’s bows entered the narrowest point, we felt the pull. The ocean essentially took over the steering for a moment, “sucking” us through the passage faster than our engines suggested. It’s a humbling sensation to feel a vessel of this size moved so effortlessly by the tide.

We emerged onto the sound with a successful transit behind us and a lot of respect for the power of the Cut.

A Bittersweet Goodbye

It was here that we had to say goodbye to Aunt Paige. The week flew by! It was a quick dinghy ride to the beach, where a taxi picked her up to whisk her away to the airport.