Sailing to Long Island, Bahamas: Hamilton Caves and Dean’s Blue Hole

After a week and a half in George Town, we were getting the itch to “pick up the hook” and move on to our next adventure. We got underway just after 8:00 AM, leaving Elizabeth Harbour behind and pointing the bows east toward Long Island.

It began as a pleasant morning, but as we cleared the harbor, we were greeted by three-to-four-foot seas right on the nose. It was a bit of a salty welcome; we’d ride up one wave only to come crashing into the next, with water washing over the decks. Thankfully, the head seas didn’t last long. Once we turned to starboard, the ride smoothed out beautifully. Seven hours later, we dropped anchor in the calm serenity of Thompson Bay, Long Island.

Eager to stretch our legs, we rented a car for a few days of island exploration. The license plate read “Self Drive,” but I quickly realized the car wasn’t going to do any of the work for me—it didn’t even remind me to stay on the left! Despite the bright red “Keep Left” sticker on the windshield, I still found myself drifting to the wrong side of the road a time or two.

Exploring the Deep and the Dark

Our first stop was the Hamilton Caves, the largest above-water cave system in the Bahamas. We met the owner, Leonard, at his home and followed him to the entrance. The caves have been in his family for generations; Leonard purchased them from his uncle, and soon his grandson will take over the family business.

Inside, it was fascinating to hear Leonard’s stories of playing hide-and-seek with his cousins in these very shadows. We spotted a few varieties of bats fluttering around—thankfully keeping their distance—and encountered the cutest little frogs, some no bigger than a dime.

Blue Holes and Historic Ruins

Next, we visited Dean’s Blue Hole. At over 600 feet deep, it’s a staggering sight, though we opted to admire the view from the beach rather than diving in. It was heartbreaking, however, to see the amount of plastic and garbage that had washed up on the beach and into the water. It was a stark reminder of how much we need to protect these natural wonders.

Heading north along Queen’s Highway, we stopped at the ruins of St. Mary the Virgin Anglican Church. A local colony of bees was busy guarding the front, so we circled around the back to find the path to the Shrimp Hole. The cool water was incredibly refreshing on such a still, hot day. William spent a solid ten minutes determined to catch a shrimp with his bare hands, eventually resigning to the fact that no shrimp would be coming home with us today.

Winding Down on the West Coast

For our final stop, we headed to the rugged west coast of the island. We wanted to see the dramatic rock formations battered by the Atlantic waves. It was the perfect spot for Pamela and me to sit and chat while the boys burned off their remaining energy running along the shore.