After a few days of living life at sea level, the cabin fever started to set in. On Monday morning, we realized our “sea legs” were getting a little too comfortable, and we were in desperate need of a proper stretch. We fueled up with a quick breakfast, powered through our daily homeschooling lessons—a little extra motivation goes a long way when there’s an island waiting—and loaded into the dinghy.
Our destination? The iconic Beacon Monument atop Stocking Island.
The Hidden Trailhead
The journey began with a bit of a scavenger hunt. While the Monument is visible from almost anywhere in Elizabeth Harbour, finding the start of the path is another story. We tied up the dinghy and began weaving our way through a dense thicket of low-lying trees and coastal scrub. It felt like a true expedition as we navigated the twisting vegetation, ducking under branches until the brush finally gave way to the established trail.
Once we hit the path, the boys took over as our official expedition leaders. It was incredible to see their enthusiasm; they weren’t just walking, they were practically scaling the limestone. Seeing them charge ahead with such energy makes me hopeful that this is just the beginning of our foot-bound explorations.
A Tale of Two Coastlines
Reaching the summit of the Monument is one of those “stop and breathe” moments—not just because you’re winded, but because the view is staggering. Standing at the base of the white stone pillar, you’re treated to a perfect 360-degree panorama of the Exumas’ natural contrast:
- To the West: The calm, turquoise sanctuary of the Elizabeth Harbour anchorage, dotted with the masts of fellow cruisers.
- To the East: The wild, rugged, and restless Atlantic coast, where the deep indigo water of the Exuma Sound crashes against the jagged limestone cliffs.
It’s a powerful reminder of how narrow these islands really are—a thin ribbon of rock separating the peaceful shallows from the mighty ocean.
The Descent to the Sound
After soaking in the views, we decided to push onward toward the Exuma Sound side of the island. This part of the trek was a bit more technical. The path down was a steep, “slippery” mix of loose sand and smooth rock. It required some careful footwork (and a few strategic slides), but the payoff was worth every precarious step.
We eventually spilled out onto a pristine, secluded beach on the windward side. This is the kind of hidden gem you can’t reach by boat—you have to earn it on foot. The boys didn’t hesitate for a second; they shed their hiking shoes and dove straight into the Atlantic rollers. Watching them play in the surf on a beach we had entirely to ourselves was the perfect reward for the afternoon’s climb.
The History of the White Pillar
The Monument itself is more than just a great photo op; it’s a piece of Bahamian maritime history. This 100-foot-tall white stone obelisk was originally built as a navigational marker for the salt trade.
Back in the day, when the salt ponds of the Exumas were a major industry, these stone beacons were essential. They helped sailors identify key landfalls and navigate the treacherous reefs of the Exuma Sound before modern GPS existed. While it no longer serves a formal official purpose, it remains a proud sentinel, guiding cruisers into the safety of Elizabeth Harbour just as it did for the schooners of the past.
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